After a quick breakfast I woke the girls briefly to say goodbye and made my way out of Mostar, along the Neretva. I knew I had close to 100 miles ahead of me and I was well motivated for the trip ahead.
The day was hot and nature had begun to recognise the start of spring as I crossed the plain before the coastal mountains. Flowers in a range of pretty colours appeared at the roadside and orchards which may have blossomed just a few hours earlier stretched between the road and the river. The change in weather could also be traced in the roadkill. Among the standard cats and dogs appeared locusts, small snakes and even the occasional river rat when the road ran close to the bank. In a moment of accidental mercy I finished off a little snake whose tail had been crushed into the tarmac but whose top half remained struggling. I did not see him until my thin tire was a couple of feet from his neck so could not change my course. I’m sure I heard a fork-tongued ‘thankth’ in his final half second.
Before the coast there was a good hard climb up the mountainside, an earner for the long downhill to come. The hillsides were bare with dappled scrub and clusters of terracotta houses appeared sporadically in settlements of various sizes. The sea was bright and flat, framed by the opposing mountainous islands. I could taste the salt air and was relieved to have gusts in various directions, no longer under the yoke of the tiresome four day headwind.
The day progressed quickly in a succession of climbs and drops, which were mercifully arranged so that most of the former were short and sharp, with most of the latter being lengthy. This allowed me to polish off the tough bits before getting good distance out of the quick and easy stretches. Save for the standard satisfaction of sun, sea and sweet little coves there was not much to report from the coastal road and at length I crossed the high bridge onto the main road above Dubrovnik and dropped down the steep backstreets into the town. I found Villa Micika, a hostel where I was given a whole dormitory to myself for free by the generosity of Toni, whom I contacted through Couch Surfing.
I spent the evening having supper at his uncle’s restaurant. I could not shake the distaste of being at leisure in a resort lying just a day’s cycle from what was left of Mostar. I went to bed early and slept well.
Distance covered 91 miles
